Monday, April 12, 2010
Saturday Go-Out Cottons, unexpected 5-7 foot SSW swell pushing through (April 10th, 2010)
As real as the first pitch at spring training...nothing heralds the approach of summer like that first cotton's go out...taking off on a ledging 6 foot slab, screaming fins engaged on the face and a s--t eating grin popping up as you realize you negotiated the take off and the line of surfers below...dialed into the peak and carving your way to nirvana...bring on that summer juice...long live the summer
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment