Pages

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Ulu...watu....ulu...watu....

It keeps cycling through my head, like a drum beat in a distant jungle, like some sort of drum line in a Jumangi movie...

Can't help but think that I'm racing across the date line, the time zones...to meet a swell ripping out of Antartica, a collision of vectors in a warm tropical Balinese sun...

Taking off for Bali This Late Thursday, Early Friday Morning (1:30 AM)

This is where we're initially staying in Bali...(first 3 nights), Legong Keraton Beach Hotel in Canggu...(link below), we take off Early Friday Morning, 1:30 AM...


A breakdown of the Surf area we are going to be in...


A sweet pic of a guy nailing a left in Canggu...

Monday, April 12, 2010

Saturday Go-Out Cottons, unexpected 5-7 foot SSW swell pushing through (April 10th, 2010)

As real as the first pitch at spring training...nothing heralds the approach of summer like that first cotton's go out...taking off on a ledging 6 foot slab, screaming fins engaged on the face and a s--t eating grin popping up as you realize you negotiated the take off and the line of surfers below...dialed into the peak and carving your way to nirvana...bring on that summer juice...long live the summer

Thursday, April 8, 2010

The Patagonia Kingfish Sticker...

the Patagonia Kingfish Sticker that will be placed on the 2nd Bali Board to cover up that awfully boring Surftech Logo...http://www.fcdsurfboards.com/fcd-shop-stickers.html