It keeps cycling through my head, like a drum beat in a distant jungle, like some sort of drum line in a Jumangi movie...
Can't help but think that I'm racing across the date line, the time zones...to meet a swell ripping out of Antartica, a collision of vectors in a warm tropical Balinese sun...
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Taking off for Bali This Late Thursday, Early Friday Morning (1:30 AM)
Monday, April 12, 2010
Saturday Go-Out Cottons, unexpected 5-7 foot SSW swell pushing through (April 10th, 2010)
As real as the first pitch at spring training...nothing heralds the approach of summer like that first cotton's go out...taking off on a ledging 6 foot slab, screaming fins engaged on the face and a s--t eating grin popping up as you realize you negotiated the take off and the line of surfers below...dialed into the peak and carving your way to nirvana...bring on that summer juice...long live the summer
Thursday, April 8, 2010
The Patagonia Kingfish Sticker...
the Patagonia Kingfish Sticker that will be placed on the 2nd Bali Board to cover up that awfully boring Surftech Logo...http://www.fcdsurfboards.com/fcd-shop-stickers.html
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)